Ulje

The Ultimate In Full Flow Oiling ------Moze li me neko skraceno prevesti o cemu se radi. -----
After being in the VW world for 16 years, I have unfortunately seen a steady decline in the quality of parts and workmanship. There are still a few companies out there that truly care about what they sell and the quality of that product. This is the case with our full flow kits.
I carefully designed this product for me and my customers to use on all of our vehicles ranging from stock daily drivers to all out monsters. The problem with most full flow kits is the oil pump cover itself. Many people make this out of aluminum or a cheap cast iron. If you have ever noticed... when you pull these off of your motor after only a very short amount of run time, they have a groove worn into the face of the pump cover. I see this on all aluminum covers and on the cast iron ones as well. This groove is only causing you a loss in oil pressure. Once it wears a large enough groove into the face of your pump you lose your .004 of play on the face surface and oil pushes around the gears rather than through the gears causing a loss in oil pressure. Once this happens your pump cover and in most cases the gears are junk and need replacing.
After as little as one summer we find ourselves trying to reface these covers or even replacing them. This is when we decided to come up with something better.
First, our pump covers start out as solid billets of steel. Not castings or Forgings. Next they go through a series of four operations on the vertical mill. Than they are vibratory tumbled to remove all burrs from machining. After this they go through one of the most important steps, heat treating. All surfaces are case hardened to an unbelievable spec. This is why our covers will not groove, gauge or warp. Once the desired heat treatment is met, the parts are than plated. The plating is a yellow zinc which holds up well in the outdoor elements or acts as a good base for painting, powder coating, ECT... Once they are plated, they are put back on the mill to ream the mounting holes and flatten the cover surface. After they are straitened out, they go onto the surface grinder for the final finish. Here they receive a near mirror finish which is +/-.0002 from end to end. As you can see in the photos the oil inlet is very large on the face of the cover. It is also milled at an angle leading into the threaded body for the highest volume of flow possible.
The oil filter holder is also made of solid billet. Here we use a high grade of 6061-6 aluminum. I never liked the look of the cast ones that came in everyone else's kit. These have a very nice look and a few added benefits over the cast ones. The passages are cut in a way to allow the maximum flow of oil. They are also much stronger in design. I offer them in blue anodized or plain machined aluminum. I can also do many other colors of anodize for an extra charge.
All fittings and hoses are included to complete your install. The fittings we chose are very expensive but are the best we have found for use in oil related installs. None of our fittings are common plumbing fittings that you find in most kits. These are high pressure Aeroquip fittings intended for the Teflon oil line only. We use all -8 line and and swept 90 degree fittings for the most flow. We also include a new fitting for your case and the plug for your oil pump. Included in the kit is 3 1/2 feet of stainless steel braided Teflon hose. This is more than enough to mount your filter in the wheel well or off of the exhaust bracket shown in my picture. You can purchase as much line as you would like for $6 more per foot, for those of you doing a special installation or other location of the filter. All line fittings are reusable and swivel 360 degrees for ease of installation.
Also included in the kit is your choice of the tall or the short Fram filter. Some prefer the shorter filter on lowered cars were ground clearance is an issue. I can also substitute your filter for a fram HP1 filter for an additional $5.
The one thing VW left out of the near perfect design of there motor was an oil filter. This is the best way to add life to your motor. Though our kit is not the cheapest out there, I can honestly say... it is the best.
As all products we sell or make here at the Seward Speed Shop, we stand behind them 100%. If at anytime you are dissatisfied with our product we will refund your money or do whatever it takes to make you happy. Our belief is that if you spend the money to do something right the first time that should be the last time you have to address it.
We also offer a motor building service. We only use the highest quality parts and stand behind every motor we build. Here again... if you want something that lasts, you need to spend the extra money to get the parts that are guaranteed to last for everything you intend to put your motor through.



POZDRAV...

kratko
sve sto drugi nude za full flow ne vredi nista
samo njihov proizvod je prava stvar

Nisi mi bio bas jasan

POZDRAV...

pa tvrde da svi drugi sistemi koji se nude za full flow (puni protok+filter) ulja nisu dobri
da su samo oni napravili pravu stvar

Jel to ovo?????????

ma da
pogledao sam ja to jos pre nego sto sam ti odgovorio

Jos jedno pitanje.
Dali se ovim gubi pritisak??????

POZDRAV...

koliko ja znam ne
to je samo dodavanje filtera (jedan od nachina)
a deo njihove price je kako drugi to ne prave dobro pa kao pada pritisak jer se u tom delu talozi prljavstina i smanjuje protok , pa pada pritisak

@strid, bas ti hvala na odgovorima, ovo mi treba za neke druge prilike. Predpostavljam, kad bi ova dva creva sa filtera skinuo i sastavio( napravio kruzni tok) da nebi gubio pritisak??

POZDRAV...

a sto bi sastavljao creva
ne razumem , pa imash varijantu samo sa filterom

Vec je bilo reci o tome ali da ponovim. Hocu da probam grejanje isparivaca preko ulja pa ako uspe samo radi atesta, jeftinija je varjanta nego preko vode.

POZDRAV...

Slavko St ::

Vec je bilo reci o tome ali da ponovim. Hocu da probam grejanje isparivaca preko ulja pa ako uspe samo radi atesta, jeftinija je varjanta nego preko vode.

POZDRAV...

Ideja je odlicna,ocekujemo izvestaj!

ne igrajte se sa uljem iz motora jer ako bilo gde pukne crevo ode motor , a i pitanje je da li isparivac moze da istrpi pritisak ilja iz motora ( od nekih 0,7 do 3,5 bar )

zaboravih da dodam , ako bi se isparivac grejao uljem, ulje motora bi se dodatno hladilo, pa bi motor bio pothladjen , a to nikako nije dobro , ni za vek ni za ekonomicnost motora

Vlajko je bio brzi sa komentarom
nemoj sa tom varijantom da se igrash

POZDRAV...

Osim toga, ulje u motoru se sporo greje...